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Friday, November 3, 2023

Grim Reaper Costume Build

The World Weary Grim Reaper

I wanted to design my own costume instead of basing a design on an existing property. The grim reaper is a classic Halloween character, and I wanted to put my own spin on it.

Purchase List (paid links):
Total: $340 starting with nothing/ I spent $80 as I already had a most of this stuff, and it's likely you do too. I bought the mask, gloves, the blanket, and the perm press material

Tool List (paid links):
  • band saw
  • sewing machine, black thread
  • dremel with sanding drum
  • drill with 1/8" bit, 5/32" bit
  • hot glue gun
  • heat gun to seal the foam
  • belt sander
  • seam ripper
  • rotary cutter
  • scrap paper for sketching and for protecting work surfaces
  • pencil (I prefer a lead holder)
  • pens
  • markers
  • tape measure
  • painters tape
  • duct tape
  • hobby knife with replacement blades
  • metal straight edge
  • cutting mat
  • contact cement
  • shop towels
  • respirator with organic vapor cartridges - contact cement is toxic, so is spray paint

Introduction
While I typically start my projects in Sketchup, most of this project was sketched by hand as the robe doesn't lend itself to digital drafting. I did design the scythe and hour glass in Sketchup to figure out the scale. This lets me figure it out before I start cutting. I always try to maximize quality and cost.

Robe & Tabard
I wanted a tattered and old look to the robe. I want this grim reaper to look like he's been around hundreds of years. I started with a paper pattern, sketching, adding, and cutting until it looked right. I had to pattern in conjunction with the stilts so that the robe would be long enough to cover my feet when wearing the stilts. The robe needed to hang about 8" longer to cover my feet. I wanted it baggy, and I wanted the sleeves to be large. The sleeves also taper wider towards the end.

Robe paper pattern in progress

Hood and robe paper pattern test fit

I added a red lining half way up the sleeves as I wanted red accents throughout the costume. I didn't fold the edge and sew the liner because I wanted a ragged look to the sleeves. I did tack the liners in four spots around the sleeves just so it would stay in place. Otherwise the liner will 'fall out.' The robe is a perm press material. I really like the weave of the material. I didn't mark patterns and opted to do it by eye as I wanted this to look like the grim reaper has maintained this for centuries. It came out better than expected and was much quicker.

I opted for buttons to fasten the robe as I knew the tabard would cover them. I also didn't want the stilts to pull against the fabric and cause the velcro to be noisy. I used 6 buttons, roughly 11" on center. My sewing machine didn't have the right end to sew buttons, so I stitched a line on all four sides and cut the opening for the button.

The best way to do the neck opening is a separate piece so you can sew the curve and not bunch the material. I did manage to make the neck opening a bit too large. Since I used the robe pattern as a starting point for the tabard, that neck opening is too large too. The only other issue with the robe is it would have been nice to slit the side seam so I had easier access to my pockets. It would just be a pass through opening.

To give the costume an imposing look, I added EVA foam shoulder pads to the robe. I hand stitched them to the top seam to keep them in place. They are right at the end of the sleeve stitching, making my shoulders broader and taller. I used a heat gun to shape the shoulder pads.

I dyed the robe with black dye. I mixed a little bit of brown for flavor and to stretch my black. I knew the pot I was using wasn't large enough. The dye instructions state half a bottle per pound of fabric with dish detergent and salt. I had quite a few pounds of fabric and only used half a bottle of black and a quarter of brown. I knew my pot was too small, and hoped that would create a faded pattern. It did. I like there are areas where the robe is a bit light.

I used the robe pattern as a starting point for the tabard. I wanted a tabard to make the costume look more like a warrior and create layers. I made it shorter than the robe because I wanted the robe below visible. The tabard has four splits - front, back, and both sides. They slit up to mid thigh and reveals the robe underneath. I did stitch a line at the top of each slit to prevent tearing. I couldn't find a black wool blanket, and I had trouble dying wool a couple years ago, so I sprayed it with black spray paint. I used velcro along the front to close the tabard. The wool just seems like the right material, I like it.

Robe fake bugs

I initially planned to do a ragged skirt between the robe and tabard. I wanted to split it into 3" strips, but the tabard would cover too much of it  and make it pointless.

I added fake cockroaches to the robe at the bottom of the robe and on the sleeves. I did this by hand, looping the thread around the bug's head and then creating a few loops through the robe. I also weathered the bottom edge of the robe and tabard on a belt sander. The goal was an irregular pattern to make both look old and worn, like they've been dragging the ground forever. I used the belt sander to create holes, thin spots, tears, and a ragged edge. I did two passes, as after the first pass the robe and tabard didn't look worn enough.

Hood
The hood is one of the most important parts. I knew I wanted a red lining just to highlight the skull mask. I used my Scorpion costume as a basis to sketch out a paper pattern as I really like that hood. I wanted the hood to peak farther than possible. I used .04 plastic between the red liner and black hood. I sewed it in a few places to keep it in place. The sewing machine sews right through this thin plastic. I extended the hook about 8" past my head. That was the look I wanted. I also didn't fold the edge when I sewed it for a ragged look.

Hood pattern

I added a bottom piece of trim to cover the neck opening. I sewed it to the hood and added a button on the inside to fasten it.

My only issue with the hood is that the back of the hood curves a bit too late, it needs to be shorter to better fit my head.

Mask and Gloves
I bought the mask, knowing I would paint it. I cleaned it first and then sprayed it in a light beige/tan. Bone has more of a beige color instead of white or gray. I used black oil paint to give it a messy look and around to blend the eyes. Oil paint won't wipe off as easy, but I wanted this messy looking. I especially wanted black around the eyes to blend in the lenses. I used cheap sunglasses lenses hot glued to the inside of the mask. With the paint it's nearly seamless. I also added extra padding to the forehead and cheeks so it fit better.

Mask first paint pass
Mask paint complete

 I added yellow, brown, and red acrylic paint to dirty up the mask and give it a bit of a story. The mask came out really well. It's one of my favorite pieces. I also added (4) red LEDs to the back of the mask, so the hood glows a bit. I had a AA battery pack that I quickly wired in placed with 16 ga wire. I just twisted the wire tight to the LED leads. It's not a great job, but it got the job done. I pull the batteries to cut the lights on/off. I did hot glue a piece of black material to the inside bottom edge of the mask just to cover my neck. It makes the head look like it's floating, which I really like.

Mask complete

I purchased the gloves but painted them to dress them up. Black paint in the joints and smears of black to dull the bright white makes them look used and worn.

Gloves after and before paint

Scythe
You can't be the grim reaper without a scythe. From the start I was thinking eight feet tall with a four foot long blade. I wanted this to be huge. With the additions of the stilts, the blade would still be taller than I was, which worked. I originally was thinking the handle would be 3/4" PVC, but with the addition of stilts, the 3/4" PVC isn't large enough to help me balance. It bends and flexes under my weight. I had 2" PVC on hand and drawing it in Sketchup, the 2" handle scales better.

The cross handle and blade is 3/4" PVC. I did heat up the end of the PVC for the blade to flatten it. I used a coupler and drilled out for the cross handle. Another coupler was used at the top. I drilled a hole at an angle to catch the blade. I wanted the PVC to go completely through the coupler for stability.

Scythe PVC skeleton

The main blade is EVA foam. I cut a 45* angle on the inside of the foam 3" up the length of the blade so the bottom angles in to a point. I used contact cement to attach the foam to itself and to the PVC skeleton with a 1" foam spacer at the top to account for the 3/4" PVC. Wear a respirator when working with contact cement.

I was going to cover the entire post in foam, but that requires a lot of foam. I ended up using craft foam for the top half, and painting the PVC for the bottom half. I layered the craft foam at the couplers for a smoother transition. Heat treat the foam before paint. This seals it so it absorbs less paint. You'll know it's sealed when the foam changes color.

Scythe blade in foam
Scythe blade attached to pole

I painted the whole thing with black plasti dip. The blade I painted a gunmetal silver, and then on the blade edge sprayed bright silver. I misted a bit of brown and burgundy on the blade to give it a dirty look. For a bit of dirt I hold the paint can farther away and only do a few quick squeezes of the trigger. Go slow with weathering. It's easy to go too fast and too much. The good thing is with weather is that you can wipe if off and the smears can add to the look.

The handle is black plastic dip with a misting of brown, beige, and burgundy. I like all of the props to look a bit dirty and used. Misting paint achieves that. When props look to clean and new they look fake.

I added the piece of red cloth to give the scythe character. Is it some kind of flag? A piece of material from a victory or enemy? Whatever it is, it looks cool.

Scythe complete

Hour Glass
An hour glass represents times up, and I also wanted it to act as a lantern with the grim reaper leading you to the under world.

The hour glass has a 1/8" wood top and bottom plate with (4) threaded rods and nuts to hold the shape. I applied foam with a chamfer to get the top and bottom shape. Adding more foam to build up the base. For the pedestals, I cut foam triangular and at an angle to achieve a curve. I needed 8 tapered columns for the top and bottom. I then cut the top and bottom on a band saw to flatten it out. You need to cut the taper tangent to the curve of the taper. I just eyeballed it, but you can't cut it with the taper flat on the table. I kept adding bits until it looked decorative enough, like the trim at all the corners. I used contact cement to attach all the pieces. Wear a respirator when working with contact cement.

Hour glass frame

Hour glass foam base and pedestals

The hour glass portion is (2) clear plastic two liter drink bottles cut to fit. I cut a notch in the foam top and bottom plate, applied hot glue and then set the bottles in place to prevent leaks of the sand.

Hour glass in foam

I took regular play sand and put it in a red dye bath. It did take a few days for it to dry. I'm glad I didn't wait until the last minute for that! I couldn't finish the hour glass until the sand was added. Once the sand was added, I glued the bottles together. I initially planned to cut the thread tops so the larger flange would meet and I forgot. I contact cemented them and then used hot glue and foam around the threads. The only change I would make is I wish I had added a piece of plastic where the bottles meet with a smaller hole so the sand didn't drain so quickly. It drains in seven seconds. I used acrylic caulk where the bottles meet the foam to ensure no sand escaped.

For the handles, I used 1/2" braided rope. I cut a small hole in the foam and it tension fits.

To fufill the lantern portion of this, I drilled (8) holes around the bottle on both ends. I drilled the wood plate and foam for 1/8" yellow LEDs, then drilling the wood plate with a 5/32" bit. I wanted the LEDs flush with the plate. They look good at night reflecting off the bottle, but don't show up during the day. To wire them, I looped and pulled the wire tight around the LED leads, adding hot glue to keep the wire in place. I thought about adding a switch, but didn't want to detract from the design of the hour glass. To cut it off and on I remove the battery.

Hour glass lights

I glued small triangles in the corners of the top and bottom so that the top and bottom plate snap into place so I can still access batteries.

Hour glass- triangles in each corner hold the plate in place

Heat treat the foam before paint. This seals it so it absorbs less paint. You'll know it's sealed when the foam changes color. I painted it with black plasti dip, then misted it with burgundy, brown, and beige.  The burgundy continues the red accent, it's subtle but noticeable.

Hour glass - finish and LEDs

Chain & Padlock
I liked the metaphor of a padlock. The grim reaper is trapped in this job. The padlock is EVA foam. It kept getting thicker to account for lights, batteries and wiring. Initially I planned for it to be (2) mats thick but it ended up being (4) thick. I have (3) red LEDs in the lock opening with piece of black paper to diffuse the light.

A belt sander flattened all the edges as my patterns were off.

Padlock

Padlock wiring in progress

The wiring loops around the LED leads with a switch on the back to switch it off and on.

The padlock was heated treated and painted with black plasti dip. I dry brushed silver around the edges and on the craft foam rivets. This highlights the different parts and provides interest.

I painted the plastic chain with silver paint, though the paint began flaking off unfortunately. It does a great job of making the chain look real, and flaking off makes it look weathered.  I cut the chain loops so I could easily hook and unhook the chain. The plastic is flexible enough to act like a clip. I looped a chain around each arm with a link in the back and two chains around the waist.

Padlock and chain

Goat Hooves
I didn't want to use stilts for this costume, while the extra 16" of height looks cool and imposing the stilts are unwieldy. When I had the idea for goat hooves, I had to use the stilts, when else can I use goat hooves on a costume? 

Goat hooves planning

The hooves are EVA foam. It's glued around the stilts, but not to the stilts. I then glued the fur material to the top edge of the hoof, after painting the hooves. The fur is then hand stitched to the stilts to hold it in place. I didn't want hooves permanently attached to the stilts.

Goat hooves final

Conclusion
I really like this costume, but the stilts are really only for photo ops. In these stilts, one wrong step could lead to a very long fall. With the mask I lose all peripheral vision which makes that worse. With the hour glass and scythe my hands aren't free to catch myself if I fall. The stilts are cool, but difficult. I hoped I could use the scythe as a balance, and while it works it's only slightly less precarious.

Without the stilts things are much easier, though I didn't factor in how many places can't clear an 8' tall scythe. Most places I went, I couldn't hold it at full height due to the ceiling.

My only other complaints are making the neck of the robe and tabard too large as well as no opening in the robe to access pockets. 

This year definitely set the bar for how unwieldy a costume can be, but it photographed really well. This is the first year I wasn't copying someone else's design, and that made things easier as I didn't have to mimic anything but also freed me to keep adding to the design. Because of that, this is going to be one of my favorites.

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