My sliding door is beyond repair. It's time to replace it.
Purchase List:
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Introduction
The sliding door that came in the house didn't slide well, the handle had broken three times, and it didn't lock. I tried to replace the rollers, but the replacement rollers didn't quite fit such an old door. It helped, but it wasn't perfect.
The new Reliabuilt door is a good door. I considered opting for the Energy Star certified door, but at nearly double the cost it only provided an additional 0.5 R value. One inch of foam offers 5 R value, so the upgrade wasn't worth it.
The most challenging aspect was getting the door from store to home. It's big and top heavy. It takes two people.
Video How To
Removing the Old Door
I started by lifting the door rollers via screw and then lifting the sliding door out of the track. I installed tile floor a few years back. The tile is 1/8" of an inch taller than the door track which prevented me from lifting the door out.
I removed six screws from the jamb. Some sliding doors have the jambs, head, and sill as separate pieces that lock into place. I thought this was constructed in that manner, but I couldn't separate the pieces. I ended up prying one of the jambs out enough to cut it with a hack saw. The frame was all one piece with the screws attaching the jamb, sill, and head concealed. I used a rubber mallet to knock the sliding door frame out of the rough opening and provide enough space to remove the sliding door.
The screws in the sill were rusted. I had to drill them out. Once the frame is removed use vice grips to remove the shaft of the screws in the sill if you had to drill them.
Once removal was complete I vacuumed the opening.
Installing the New Door
The door is reversible. I had to remove the sliding door, flip the door frame over end and reinstall the door to get the correct orientation. To remove the door, lift the rollers and then lift the bottom out.
I screwed a 2x4 onto the top flange to prevent damage during the flip.The frame is the same on all four sides, so flipping the frame doesn't change anything about how the door operates. The door needs to be removed anyway to remove a plastic spacer between the door track and frame to prevent it from sliding around during transport. You will also need to remove the door track and filler panel and reinstall if you flip the door.
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| I installed a 2x4 on the top by screwing through the tab before flipping the door. |
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| A pry bar will help remove the door track if flipping the door. |
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| If you flip the door, the silver metal door track and white plastic trim piece need to be removed and reinstalled. |
For a replacement, you will need to cut off all four fins with a box cutter. Score them and snap them off. If this were a new door, you would leave the tabs, screwing through the fins and into the wall sheathing.
I put flashing on the wood sill, but since this is an interior door it's not a requirement. If this were an exterior door, I would be flashing all four sides of the frame, making sure to tie from exterior sheathing back into the interior. Flashing tape with flex tape at the corners would be the easiest and most efficient way to do that.
The manufacturer recommends (2) screws per jamb, 6" from the head and sill. I installed (3) on the fixed door side, one at the top and bottom and one in the middle, as the latch is on the other and the latch uses (2) screws that are provided. The screws to install the door are not provided.
First I made sure the sill was level, it was. Then I shimmed the door sides to space the door equally in the opening, then used the shims to make sure the door was plumb. You need shims at every screw. Overlap the shims by inserting them from each side so the thin end of one is at the thick end of the other. This provides a flat, solid surface to screw through. When you then slide one shim across the other, the thickness of the two shims remains equal. If you only put the shim through one side, the door will want to wobble or twist.
Pre-drill through the door jamb. Take extra time to make sure the screws are centered in the jamb and at matching distances from the head/sill for a cleaner look.
The manufacturer directs to NOT put screws in the sill and that screws in the header are optional.
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| Door handle assembly. |
Once the frame is installed, reinstall the door, head first. When adjusting the door rollers, pick the door up to reduce the tension on the rollers and to make it easier to lower the rollers.With the weight of the door on the rollers, they won't lower easily.
This door handle had a set of screws to mount the handle to the plate and then another set of screws going through the door to each side. With the handle installed, the door is usable, though the job isn't done.
Finishing Work
To finish the install, score and snap the shims. Make sure you score and snap them so that they don't extend past the door frame. Place backer rod between the door and rough opening around the entire perimeter on both sides. Backer rod fills gaps and ensures the caulk has an hour glass shape which promotes expansion and contraction. I had a 3/8" gap at each jamb, but a 1" gap at the header.
To temporarily close the header gap I cut up a pool noodle to fit until I could cut a wood filler piece.
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| Pool noodle to temporarily fill the gap. |
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| Glue up of the wood filler piece. |
I cut 3 pieces of 3/16" plywood, glued them together and then glued them to the head to reduce the gap. I used shims to hold it in place to glue it to the head of the rough framing. I painted it to match the trim prior to install.
Once the backer rod is in place, use painters tape to mask out on each side for the caulk. This makes clean up MUCH easier. You also don't have to be as careful when initially caulking.
Cut the end of the caulk tube off and pull the end of the gun across the gap to caulk, as opposed as pushing the tip into the caulk as it dispenses. Wet a gloved finger and push the caulk into the gap as you drag your finger across the line to create a finished appearance. Add caulk as needed. Make sure the caulk fully fills the gap, there are no holes or voids, and that you have a smooth finish. Water helps in achieving a smooth finish.
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| Backer rod in, and masking done for caulk. |
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| Drag the end of the caulk gun across the gap. |
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| Use a wet finger to smooth the caulk bead and press it into the gap. |
Pull the tape off soon after you caulk. If you wait until the caulk dries you may pull your caulk bead up, or at least tear the edges.
Conclusion
This is a really nice door. I was impressed with the quality. It rolls smoothly with minimal effort. It's completely worth it. Install time can vary. My initial install time was three or four hours with most of that trying to figure out how to break down the existing frame. I went back the next day to caulk.
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| PVC door stop. |
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